Travel

Along the sacred riverfront of Varanasi, amidst the eighty-four ghats that form the spiritual artery of the city, stands a structure of profound and perplexing beauty: the Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple. Located at the edge of the famed Manikarnika Ghat, the temple presents a dramatic spectacle. It leans at a severe nine-degree angle, its stone spire tilting precariously towards the northwest, and for most of the year, its sanctum sanctorum lies submerged beneath the holy waters of the Ganga.1 This haunting image of a half-drowned, leaning tower has made it one of the most photographed, yet least understood, landmarks in this ancient city.

Dwarka: The City of Many Layers

At the westernmost tip of India’s Saurashtra peninsula, where the Gomti River meets the Arabian Sea, lies the city of Dwarka. Here, the air is thick with the scent of salt and incense, and the sound of temple bells from the towering Dwarkadhish Temple blends with the ceaseless roar of the ocean. Dwarka is more than a geographical location; it is a concept, a sacred space where the divine is believed to have once walked the earth, a glorious kingdom lost to the waves, and today, a living, breathing centre of faith that draws millions of pilgrims.

On the wrist of a bride, they are circles of joy, shimmering with colour and light. In the grand hall of a palace, a chandelier descends like a frozen waterfall of crystal, a testament to exquisite artistry. This is the luminous world of Firozabad glass—a world of delicate beauty, vibrant hues, and timeless tradition. For centuries, this city in Uttar Pradesh, located just 40 kilometres from Agra, has been India’s undisputed capital of glass, its name synonymous with the bangles that adorn millions and the intricate glassware that graces homes across the globe. It is affectionately known as the Suhag Nagri, the city that fulfils the demands of married women, and the city that has “glittered for centuries”.